Great Ocean Road Rock Climbing: 10 Tips from a Local! π§ββοΈ
π₯ G’day! Just got back from an epic long weekend crushing the limestone cliffs along the Great Ocean Road, and I’m bloody stoked to share my top 10 local tips!
ποΈ Day 1: The Grampians Warm-Up
Kick off your trip with a drive up to the Grampians (Gariwerd) for a day on the classic sandstone. Start your morning at The Gallery with some easy 5.7-5.9 routes to get your bearings. The friction here is brilliant! Grab brekkie in Halls Gap before heading to the Watchtower for some cracking multi-pitch climbs in the arvo. Finish with a barbie at the campsite β perfect way to prep for the limestone tomorrow.
ποΈ Day 2: Point Addis Sport Climbing
Rise and shine! Point Addis is a ripper for sport climbing on the Great Ocean Road proper. Start early to avoid the crowds and heat. The right side offers heaps good beginner-friendly routes (16-18), while the left side will challenge the more experienced climbers. Pack plenty of water β there’s no shade here. I’d recommend trying ‘The Great Ocean Road’ (18) β it’s a classic for a reason! Finish with a swim at the beach to soothe those forearms.
ποΈ Day 3: The Otways Deep Water Soloing
Ready for something different? Today we’re hitting the deep water soloing spots near Cape Patton. Morning is prime time when the ocean is calm. The rock quality is superb, and falling into the Southern Ocean is… refreshing! Start on the easier boulders to get used to the heights. Bring your sunnies and some grippy shoes β you won’t need a harness today! The views of the coastline from the top are absolutely worth the climb.
ποΈ Day 4: London Bridge & The Arch
Last day, and we’re going big! Head to London Bridge for some adventurous trad climbing. The exposure here is unreal β you’re literally climbing right above the ocean waves. ‘The Arch’ is a must-do if you’ve got your trad gear sorted (grade 20). The rock can be a bit chossy in places, so test your gear carefully. This spot’s more for experienced climbers, but even if you’re just watching, it’s bloody spectacular. End your trip with fish and chips in Port Campbell β you’ve earned it!
π Essential Gear Checklist
Here’s what you’ll wanna bring: β 60m rope (essential for those ocean cliffs) β Full rack of cams (0.5-3 inches) β Quickdraws (12+ for sport days) β Helmet (rockfall is real here) β Climbing shoes (bring two pairs if possible) β Chalk bag with extra chalk β First aid kit with marine sting relief β Dry bag for electronics β Sunscreen (reef-safe for ocean climbing) β Plenty of water bottles
π° Total Trip Cost Breakdown
Here’s the damage for a 4-day climbing adventure: π Fuel (from Melbourne): $80-100 ποΈ Camping (3 nights): $60-90 π½οΈ Food: $150-200 π§ββοΈ Park passes: $50 π» Beers/dinners out: $120 π Gear rental (if needed): $100/day π Emergency fund: $100 Total: Roughly $660-760 for the full experience. Split between mates, it’s actually pretty reasonable for the amount of climbing you’ll get in!
π‘ Local Pro Tips
1. Check the tides before ocean climbing β low tide is your best friend. 2. The best climbing season is March-May and September-November β summer’s too hot, winter’s too wet. 3. Download offline maps β phone reception is patchy along the coast. 4. Join the ‘Vic Climbing’ Facebook group for real-time beta and partners. 5. The locals are friendly, but always ask before climbing on someone’s project. 6. Morning alpine starts aren’t just for the mountains β they save you from the harsh afternoon sun here too!
π Practical Info
π Great Ocean Road, Victoria 3233 (various climbing locations)
π From Melbourne, 2.5 hours drive to Torquay (start of GOR), additional 2 hours to main climbing areas
π° Free climbing (except park fees), camping $20-30/night, gear rental $100/day
π Best climbing times: 7am-11am and 3pm-6pm (avoid midday heat)
β±οΈ 4-day minimum for comprehensive experience
π‘ Tips & Warnings
β
Always check the weather forecast and swell conditions before ocean climbing
β
Bring twice as much water as you think you’ll need β the coast is exposed
β Don’t climb on wet rock after rain β the limestone becomes dangerously slippery
β οΈ Watch out for loose rock, especially after rainfall β always test your holds
π Planning your Great Ocean Road climbing trip? Drop questions below! π
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